Hi there – my name is Keith Hunt. I’m a retired ham-fisted [yes, I really do have poor hand & eye co-ordination] qualified mechanical engineer, with years of real world engineering experience, who usually gives up and bins metal & plastic models………

But building good card models give me enormous satisfaction!

If I can build the card models I’ve designed [using the simple techniques I’ve had to develop to compensate for my cack-handedness] then so probably can you.Each is designed with great precision and to popular model railway scales [the loco above is 4mm/ft and suits 00 layouts]. Use it on a static narrow gauge feeder line serving a quarry or industrial diorama [or as a really eye catching wagon load].In a few hours [and with the simplest of tools and techniques] you can have a little gem that is a work of art that is designed to sit on 009 [9mm gauge] track. And there is no painting, merely rub a HB or B pencil over the white card edges to finish [you may choose to varnish but it is not essential].

Don’t get nervous, it is only a piece of cardboard.

As far as I can see there is nothing quite like them as I have designed and proven the models to satisfy myself. There are plenty of card models that I would never tackle [because of my poor hand & eye co-ordination] many of which have structural weaknesses when built.

Mine are relatively bomb proof in 200 micron card. In addition the smallest parts should be reinforced with thin super-glue [which gives the card an immense strength that is comparable with GRP]. Approach each part in the most direct manner you can, ie cutting on a cutting mat without a straight edge & folding without scoring. A little practice around drawn lines on scrap will soon prove that you can do these things. All unnecessary aids and indirect methods tend to increase the risk of inaccuracy.

Your most important tool is probably the cutting mat, but this will prove too hard for the very accurate reverse creasing technique I strongly recommend. Experiment the ‘knife folding’ technique by pressing into a folded floor cloth (see pictures link below) a flexible sanding block, a thick and broad rubber band or a piece of felt etc. On the other hand [my left – pun intended] I press into the fleshy part fo my index finger with the extended snap-off knife blade – and have never cut myself.Cut on the outside of the black lines [apart from where a brass or copper component is set in a black or grey background]. Go and buy yourself a new pair of nail snipers if necessary – and whilst you are out there buy the right type of knife and some cocktail sticks.





  • Nail snippers
  • PVA woodworking adhesive
  • Self closing tweezers
  • Sharp edged engineers steel rule
  • Round diamond grit file [not essential]
  • Snap-off knife
  • Water thin super-glue
  • Fine curved dressmakers scissors
  • Cutting mat
  • A good light and maybe a magnifying aid – if you can’t see it you can’t make it
  • A deep box to keep your made bits in – don’t sneeze
  • Patience
  • More patience

Overall the aim is to make card modeling more satisfying and a lot easier, to create a new model every month and to help via this web-site etc.
Finally ‘think down’ to the part you are trying to create – and remember when you conclude that it is impossible that I have made it [and that it ain’t nothin’ compared with my N gauge Bulleid and LNER A4 locomotive Mallard].
Take a break, have swear, kick the cat – and be aware that these models can become VERY ADDICTIVE.

All kits will include a full set of replacement parts.
Keith Hunt.
For instructional pictures please visit: Pictures

3 responses to “Home

  1. Excellent site… I’m just beginning to look at card as a medium so I’ll be back frequently, looking for ideas and tips. Thanks.

  2. the models are brilliant.can you send me a copy of your russel kit to me .
    my email is natkins2@yellow.esinet.org

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